Her Table, Her Story
By Katie Murphy
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Les Dames d’Escoffier International (LDEI), in collaboration with the Nashville chapter of LDEI, announced the inaugural M.F.K. Fisher Symposium for Women in Food & Storytelling, taking place April 4th and 5th, in Nashville. This event pays tribute to the legendary M.F.K. Fisher, whose groundbreaking work in food writing changed how we think about the connection between food and culture.
The symposium's keynote speaker will be Ruth Reichl, former editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine and renowned restaurant critic for The New York Times. Award-winning journalist and editor Toni Tipton-Martin will join Reichl for an inspiring conversation that promises to set the stage for this dynamic event. Together, they will explore the role of women in food media and the power of storytelling.
Additionally, the Toni Tipton-Martin Foundation, The Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts, and other LDEI chapters will award twelve scholarships to women pursuing careers in food media.
The inaugural M.F.K. Fisher Symposium not only honors the legacy of one of the most celebrated figures in food writing but also looks at how food media has evolved through the voices of today’s leaders. Ruth Reichl and Toni Tipton-Martin are two of those voices, sharing their insights and experiences that both reflect and build on M.F.K. Fisher’s impact.
M.F.K. Fisher was Ruth Reichl’s idol from an early age. "I discovered Mary Frances' work as a child, and, even then, knew that I'd found a kindred spirit," Ruth said.
"In a time when few people took food seriously, she appreciated it in all the ways that I did." M.F.K’s encouragement led Ruth to make the decision to work at a newspaper, where she was told to "learn to write fast and turn it in, even if it's not perfect," a lesson she remains eternally grateful for.
Ruth sees M.F.K. Fisher as a leader in food media, stating that "women have always been part of food media, but their voices are more diverse than ever." In a world where food media was once confined to "sweet little stories about recipes and restaurants," Ruth appreciates the shift towards tackling more substantial issues.
Ruth advises women looking to break into food journalism, stating, "Read the best writers you can find and figure out why they're good. Don’t let anyone tell you what to write." She emphasizes that it’s the stories that challenge us, particularly those that frighten us, that are most worth pursuing. "It’s the stories that frighten you that are most worth doing," she shares.
Toni Tipton-Martin, an advocate for amplifying diverse voices in food media, feels that being a part of the symposium is a "full-circle moment." She admires M.F.K. Fisher for "elevating the food writing craft with her poetic approach" and sees this event as an opportunity to further the conversation by including more diverse perspectives. "To be included in a gathering that carries her legacy forward—while also expanding the conversation to include diverse voices in food media–is so meaningful," Toni says.
Toni Tipton-Martin’s work, particularly focused on African American culinary history, draws heavily on the personal storytelling M.F.K. was known for. "Food is never just about sustenance–it’s about memory, culture and identity," she notes. Just as M.F.K. Fisher captured the human experience behind every meal, Toni aims to highlight the overlooked stories of those who have shaped America’s culinary culture but have been historically overlooked.
While Toni acknowledges the progress made in food media, she points out that much work still needs to be done. "We’ve made incredible strides in making food media more inclusive. But there’s still work to be done. Many stories remain underfunded, undervalued, or confined to niche audiences," she says.
Both Ruth and Toni stress the importance of mentorship in shaping the next generation of food writers. Toni speaks passionately about the need for mentorship, saying, "Mentorship is essential. This symposium is a chance to share knowledge and build lasting connections, providing support and a sense of belonging in the industry." Ruth also sees mentorship as crucial for growth in the field. "I was lucky to have mentors who encouraged me to pursue my passion, and I try to do the same for others," she says.
As the inaugural M.F.K. Fisher Symposium continues to celebrate Fisher’s legacy, Ruth Reichl and Toni Tipton-Martin remind us that food journalism is about more than recipes. It's about the power of storytelling.
The M.F.K. Fisher Symposium promises to be a memorable and empowering event. It will honor the legacy of an iconic writer and inspire the next generation of women in food and storytelling. For more information, visit ldei.org and follow @lesdamesintl on Instagram and @LDEIdamesdescoffier on Facebook.
